#ExpertAdvice: A top-rated derm talks clean beauty

Find out what a top-rated dermatologist has to say about clean beauty. (Yes, we went there)

WE ASKED VAN CITY’S must-see dermatologist Dr. Katie Beleznay—hailed as a “miracle worker” by patients—for her take on some clean beauty basics. When she’s not practising at Seymour Dermatology and Carruthers & Humphrey Cosmetic Dermatology in Vancouver, Dr. Beleznay is a Clinical Instructor for the Department of Dermatology at the University of British Columbia.

WHAT DOES THE TERM “CLEAN BEAUTY” MEAN TO YOU?

KB: The term “clean beauty” is not defined by any regulatory body, nor is there universal agreement around what it means. The most common way I’ve seen it used is in reference to skincare products that do not contain a lengthy list of ingredients, some of which have been deemed toxic or harmful; however, the definition of what is “toxic or harmful” is still quite controversial. Some decisions that something is harmful are not rooted in a lot of scientific evidence. Further, describing or labelling something as “clean” or “natural” is not regulated, and in fact, some of the so-called “natural” products or those using the buzzword “botanical” can, in fact, cause skin reactions like irritant or allergic contact dermatitis.

THERE’S CERTAINLY CONCERN ABOUT THE SAFETY OF SOME INGREDIENTS...

KB: There has been some fear- mongering when it comes to shopping for skincare products and not all of it is deserved. This is in part related to the clean beauty movement, but also a result of the wealth of skincare information available online, which is not all backed by science. One of the issues with this is that when an ingredient gets a bad reputation it often gets replaced with other ingredients that may not be tested and have less evidence in terms of safety and effectiveness.

DO ANY INGREDIENTS HAVE A BAD RAP THEY DON’T DESERVE?

KB: Preservatives such as parabens are one of the most disputed ingredients in skincare. However, preservatives are important to keep bacteria and mould from growing. They also stabilize products to prevent them from losing efficacy over time. Although there have been consumer concerns regarding endocrine disruption or carcinogenicity associated with parabens, definite evidence of their harm is lacking in the scientific literature, and many studies confirm their safety. They have also been shown to have a very low incidence of allergic contact dermatitis. The FDA investigated parabens and found that the concentration being used in cosmetics was safe. — Kate Kennedy