Think one shade (or technique) fits most? Think again. Cosmetics asked the makeup pros for advice on addressing some common multiculti beauty concerns
THE EXPERT: Veronica Chu, Makeup Pro for CoverGirl
What’s your advice on choosing the right foundation? “Typically, Asian skin tones have a stronger yellow undertone, so you want to avoid foundations with more of a pink base. For example, when I stand next to a lot of my Caucasian friends, my complexion looks a bit warmer because of my strong yellow undertones, even though I’m just as pale as they are.”
What beauty concerns do your East Asian clients frequently ask about? “They tend to ask how to apply eyeliner and how to figure out where their crease is. With liner, it’s best to go with a waterproof formula. Many Asian girls don’t have a lot of lid space, so liner tends to transfer. Also, generally they go straight for smoky shadow, but you don’t necessarily have to do that to make eyes look bigger. You could concentrate on beautiful full lashes, or a gorgeous cat eye—this looks great on a flatter eye plane because you can really see that graphic line. Don’t be afraid to elongate the cat eye outside of your eye line—it’s a great way to give the illusion of a larger eye. As for the crease: it’s my theory that everyone has one, you just have to find where it is, but I also think it’s important to remember it isn’t always imperative to accentuate this part.”
Above, from left: Kat Von D Ink Liner in Trooper, $23. CoverGirl TruBlend Liquid Makeup in Sand Beige, $13. CoverGirl Lashblast Fusion Waterproof Mascara, $10.
PRO TIP: “Asian clients always ask how to make their lashes stay curly. [After using a curler] try a waterproof mascara as it tends to be a bit lighter, which can help keep the shape.”
THE EXPERT: Vimi Joshi, Senior Artist for M.A.C
What’s your advice on choosing the right foundation? “A lot of South Asian women have a more golden undertone, but tend to choose a foundation with a more red or pink base, which makes their skin look blue or grey. It’s important to choose a yellow undertone instead.”
What beauty concerns do your South Asian clients frequently ask about? “Often when they see dark circles under their eyes, they immediately put concealer over them. But this makes the circles more prominent because they’re only lightening—not covering—the darkness, so they get that almost blue, lavender effect underneath the eye area. The only way to neutralize dark circles on South Asian skin is by using an orange or a yellow corrector first. The orange will neutralize the blue, and the yellow will neutralize any violet. Then to avoid lightening the area too much, use a medium-tone concealer like the ones in M.A.C’s NW range.”
Above, from left: M.A.C Studio Conceal and Correct Duo in Rich Yellow/Burnt Coral, $30. Urban Decay High-Color Lipgloss in Kinky, $22. M.A.C Studio Fix Fluid in C4.5, $32.
PRO TIP: “When it comes to a nude lip, go one shade darker than the colour of your foundation or your own skin. Then you’ll have the perfect nude that will brighten, instead of washing you out.”
THE EXPERT: Heather Nightingale, Regional Manager, West, and National Pro Educator for Make Up For Ever
What’s your advice on choosing the right foundation? “It can be challenging to find the correct shade and avoid looking washed out or ashy. Most women with deeper skin tones have either golden, olive or beige undertones, so I suggest looking for primers, foundations and powders with a peachy or caramel undertone to even out darker areas of the face—make sure to avoid light to medium pinks.”
What beauty concerns do your clients with darker skin tones frequently ask about? “Many experience oily skin, but it’s still important to hydrate. I suggest choosing a moisturizer formulated for oily skin. Multicultural beauties can experience sensitive skin, too, so I tell them to use hydrating and mattifying primers as well as makeup setting sprays with hydrating ingredients. Also, they should remember to use a good eye cream before applying concealer.”
Above, from left: Make Up For Ever Mist & Fix, $34. Laura Mercier Silk Crème Oil Free Photo Edition Foundation in Truffle, $58. Make Up For Ever Step 1 Skin Equalizer Radiant Primer Peach, $42.
PRO TIP: “Clients with deeper skin tones usually have unevenness, with some areas lighter than others. They can achieve great results by using a primer to equalize the tones.”
This article was originally published in the Summer 2015 issue of Cosmetics magazine. For more, download our iPad edition.